Hi! My name is Ashley Place, and the photo below captures me at the start of Pumpkin Blossom Farm's 4th lavender harvest. I started working with Missy when the farm was just a year old, and I've picked up a lot of tips and tricks along the way. Nestled away on a hillside in Warner, NH, our farm has grown from a bare slope in 2020 to a lush and flourishing field of over 10,000 lavender plants—all tended by hand by our small, dedicated team. Whether you brought a plant home from our farm, or you're looking to expand your lavender knowledge from anywhere across the U.S, this quick start guide is meant to cover all the bases without any over technical practices or overwhelming information.
Lavendula X Intermedia - What is it?
Before we dig into planting, it's essential to know the type of lavender you're choosing for your garden or farm. If you purchased your plants from our farm, you're growing "lavendula X intermedia" which is a hybrid between English and Portugese lavender. It is known to grow to an impressive size, produce rich fragrance, and a high essential oil and bud yield. Its robust nature also makes it well suited to colder climates such as New England.This lavender is great for aesthetics, fragrance, crafting, aromatherapy and culinary uses, and is almost exclusively what we grow on our farm.
Where Do Our Plants Come From?
After extensive research, Missy found the ideal source of our plants, located in Kintersville, Pennsylvania. Peace Tree Farm is an organic wholesale greenhouse that specializes in cultivating new species of lavender. Though you cannot purchase from them directly as they are wholesale only, we sell three varieties of thier lavender that have proven sucessful in the start of June annually. Our Plant Preorder Form is available on our website from January to June, where you can purchase plants for farm pick up. We have three varities available:
What Varieties Do We Grow?
Phenomenal: makes up most of our field. It has thinner wispy and whimsical sprigs that move like waves in the wind. Scent is herbal and floral. This is Missy's favorite lavender and continues to impress us with its hardiness and high yield of blooms. ( Between 4 and 5 half dollar size bundles per every mature plant)
Sensational: is Phenomenal's big sister. Sprigs are tall, thick and have a pronouced square shape. They grow straight up toward the sun and aren't easily swayed. Scent has a slight mint undertone that brings a cool freshness that balances floral tones. Although it produces about half the amount of stems as Phenomenal, they are more than double the size and have the highest essential oil content out of the three. This makes Sensational great for crafting and dried arrangements.
Exceptional: introduced in 2023, Exceptional is like phenomenal with one important twist - the blooms are pure white in color. At this time, we do not have enough information on other characteristics, but they took to the field nicely and almost quadrupled in size on thier planing season. Exceptional produces sprigs similar to phenomenal, but slightly straighter. Foliage is a slighlty lighter green and scent is reminiscent of a lavender cucumber water - fresh, tangy, and clean.
Growing and Caring For Lavender
Planning Ahead
Lavender thrives when you plan(t) ahead! The timing and location of planting are critical to ensuring the health and longevity of your plants. In our environment, it’s best to have lavender in the ground by early June. This timing eliminates the risk of frost and allows the plants to establish strong roots before winter. Spring planting also offers ideal soil conditions—not too wet and no longer frozen—making it easier for both you and your plants.
While fall planting is an option, we generally don’t recommend it due to the risks of frost and insufficient establishment time. If you choose to plant in the fall, be sure to do so at least 6 to 8 weeks before the first frost, typically between mid-September and early October. It’s a gamble but can succeed with proper timing and care.
Make The Bed Before They Arrive
Another important thing to keep in mind is that lavender is pretty picky when it comes to soil. Believe it or not, they prefer an arid, "low quality" soil. This is because it closely resembles the Medditerannean conditions in which lavender originates from. This is what your soil should look like:
Well draining (sandy and gravelly soils are good)
P.H Range: Neutral to Alkaline (6.5 to 8.0 pH)
Low to Moderate Fertility
Aerated and loose texture
Dry conditions (No mulching)
If the area you want to plant does not meet these requirements, a few changes can be made. If your soil is dense and has a clay textuere, you may consider amending with sand, gravel, or organic matter. If your soil is too acidic, add lime to raise the pH. If your soil is overly rich and compacted, you may want to opt for a raised bed.
The Secret Ingredient: Sunshine
The secret to thriving lavender is simple: plenty of sunlight. Aim for a spot on your property that gets at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sun every day. Sunlight fuels lavender’s growth, strengthens its stems, and enhances its fragrance.
A sunny location isn’t just ideal—it’s mandatory. Without enough light, lavender may struggle to bloom and lose its signature scent.
Planting
Choosing Your Plants
If you have the opportunity to select your plants, look for ones with silvery-green foliage and no browning on the edges—this indicates health and vitality. When examining a plant, pick it up to check that the soil is moist and the plant feels firmly rooted and intact.
Pay attention to structural integrity:
Overly pliable plants may have been exposed to root rot or fungal infections.
Brittle plants could be suffering from dehydration and are likely dying.
A healthy plant will have soft, sleek leaves with a slight give when gently squeezed.
Finally, inspect for pests on the leaves and in the soil, particularly if purchasing from a commercial source. While our farm has never experienced pests, common lavender invaders include spittlebugs, spider mites, and aphids.
Mesh
When you receive your plugs you will want to make sure you remove any protective covering from the plant's roots before you put them in the ground. These coverings, often a mesh advertised as biodegradable, should still be removed to allow the roots to grow freely.
For an efficient method, especially if you’re planting a large number of plugs, use a box cutter to carefully slice down the length of the plug and peel off the mesh. Once removed, gently massage the roots to loosen them and encourage better establishment in the soil.
Weed Barrier and Hole Depth
When you’ve chosen the perfect spot for your lavender, it’s time to consider weed control, especially if you’re planting in large quantities. At our farm, we use a synthetic barrier laid down a few months before planting begins to minimize weeds. Another option is peastone or gravel, which is visually appealing but can make harvesting (though it makes for uncomfortable harvesting). Other farmers have also used cardboard as an organic/biodegradable option (we do not recommend this.)
Planting
When planting your plugs, dig holes approximately 3 inches in diameter and 6 inches deep. The roots don’t need to reach the bottom, but loosening the soil below this depth will make it easier for the plant to establish strong growth.
Once the hole is ready:
Position the Plant: Place the lavender so all green foliage is above ground, ensuring only the roots are buried.
Backfill the Soil: Add soil as needed and gently, but firmly, pack it around the roots to secure the plant.
Water Thoroughly: Give the plant a generous drink immediately after planting to help it settle into its new home.
Establishing Healthy Growth
Watering
Now that your lavender is planted, it's essential to monitor it closely during its first growing season.
Pay Attention to Rainfall: Water only when necessary. On hot days, ensure the soil stays moist to prevent the sun from scorching your plants.
General Schedule: A good rule of thumb is to water every other day. After heavy rainfall, you can extend the interval to 2–3 days.
Seasonal Adjustments: As fall approaches and temperatures drop, the soil retains more moisture. Watering becomes less frequent as the plants naturally prepare for winter.
Pruning
As your plant develops throughout the season, it should grow to about the size of a bowling ball by the start of Autumn. The foliage should be relatively uniform, and the plant should be dense and round. You may notice that the center of your plant is becoming stronger and less maluable - this is a sign that your plant is healthy and has a strong foundation. Pruning your plant should not be necessary until it has had at least a full year in the ground.
Pruning your plant is necessary to protect its health and aesthetics. Here's what to look for to determine if your plants need pruning.
1.) Overgrowth: Our goal is to keep lavender plants uniform and round. When we prune, we start from underneath the plant and scoop upwards with electric shears to maintain a natural, rounded shape. If the plant appears uneven, it’s okay to adjust it gently, but always prune sparingly.
Focus only on the new, green foliage and avoid cutting into the woody parts of the plant. These woody areas serve as the plant’s structural “bones” and are essential for its health. Keeping your cuts precise and minimal ensures the plant remains healthy and strong.
2.) Damage: As your plant ages, you may notice that some of the woody areas are becoming unhealthy and brittle. If the wood is dead, you can remove it from the center of the plant with your hands or snips. This damage often happens from age, wind, or other forces beyond prevention. Do this sparingly, as it will take time and energy for the plant to regenerate. A good way to check this is if there is a "bald spot" on your plant, take the wood and squeeze it in your hand. If it snaps and breaks, it needs to be removed.
Fertilization
Lavender thrives in low-nutrient soil and generally does not require regular fertilization. However, because these plants have a long lifespan—around 10 years—the soil can become depleted over time. If you suspect your planting area is particularly low in nutrients, consider using a low-nitrogen fertilizer, such as wood ash. Fertilization is most beneficial after the plants have been established for a few years, and only if the soil is extremely low in nutrients.
At our farm, we have not yet fertilized our lavender, as our soil is naturally rich - it was previously a horse farm. However, as our plants mature, we’ve begun exploring the idea of light fertilization to ensure their longevity and productivity. Keeping an eye on soil quality over the years is a good practice to maintain vibrant and healthy lavender.
Pest and Disease Management
Lavender is a particulary hardy and foolproof plant to care for. However, watch out for root rot or fungal diseases. They are relativey uncommon, but can cause a lot of damage if left untreated. If you suspect a plant is diseased, there will be signs in the foliage, such as pale coloring, dead patches, or yellowing/browning in the leaves.
Root Rot
To further inspect, reach into the base of your plant, and move it around. If it easily gives, you'll know the roots are no longer doing thier job and the plant is no longer viable. Unfortunately, you'll have to remove any affected plants and amend the soil to solve this problem. Be sure that good airflow is maintained and foliage is not wet for long periods of time to discourage this in the future.
Fungal Diseases
If you suspect a fungal disease in your plants, there may be exessive wilting even after proper watering, blackening of the stems and leaves, die back or mold spots. Plants may have a slower growth rate or even stop growing entirely if the case is severe. To treat, only water your plants when absolutely necessary, improve airflow, and remove any affected areas.
Overwintering
There is one great debate between lavender farmers big and small - to cover or not to cover. We live in an unforgiving climate here in New Hampshire, and the winters do a number on our plants. Some New England farmers choose to cover their plants with plastic tarps, plant shields, cedar bows, etc. to protect them from the elements. We personally do not cover our plants, but many do, so here's a pro/con list to determine if covering is right for you:
Cover PROS:
1. Protection from Frost Damage
Covers insulate plants against frost and freezing temperatures, which can kill exposed foliage or even the entire plant.
Especially beneficial for young or newly planted lavender with less-established root systems.
2. Prevents Desiccation
Harsh winter winds can dry out lavender, leading to winterkill. Covers provide a barrier against windburn and moisture loss.
3. Shields Against Heavy Snow
Reduces the risk of snow buildup damaging or breaking branches.
Prevents ice from weighing down the plant and causing structural damage.
4. Minimizes Root Stress
Helps maintain consistent soil temperature, reducing the risk of frost heaving (where plants are pushed out of the soil as it freezes and thaws).
5. Encourages Early Spring Growth
Protecting plants during winter can help them emerge healthier and faster when the weather warms up, as they face less stress during dormancy.
Cover Cons
1. Increased Risk of Fungal Diseases
Covers can trap moisture, creating a damp environment conducive to fungal diseases like root rot or gray mold.
Lack of airflow beneath covers can exacerbate these issues, especially in milder winters.
2. Labor-Intensive
Covering lavender requires time and effort to install correctly, especially for large plantings.
Requires careful monitoring throughout the winter to adjust covers during warm spells to avoid overheating.
3. Potential for Overheating
On warmer winter days, covers can retain too much heat, disrupting the plant’s dormancy and causing premature growth that may be damaged when temperatures drop again.
4. Cost of Materials
High-quality protective materials like burlap, frost blankets, or straw can be costly, particularly for larger fields.
Replacing damaged or degraded covers annually can add to long-term expenses.
5. Aesthetic Concerns
Covered lavender fields may look less appealing, which could be a downside for people or farms that rely on winter visitors or picturesque views.
Neutral Considerations:
Type of Cover Used:
Burlap and frost blankets are breathable and effective but require anchoring.
Straw or mulch can be easy to apply but may need to be removed in early spring to avoid mold.
Winter Severity:
In milder New England winters, covering may not be necessary, but harsher winters with heavy snow or extreme cold make it more essential.
Plant Age and Variety:
Mature plants with woody stems are more winter-hardy and may not require covering, while younger plants benefit significantly from extra protection.
Varieties like Lavandula x intermedia are hardier and may tolerate uncovered winters better than less resilient types.
When to Expect Blooms
We see our first hints of purple mid to late June and our lavender is ready to harvest between July 5th and the 20th, which is when we hold our U-Pick festival. The optimal time for your lavender to bloom is after at least a full year of establishment. That being said, we have often encuntered a "stress bloom" which happens almost as soon as your plants are in the ground. If this happens, deadhead the sprigs as they come up so that the plant can focus on establishing deeper roots to survive through the winter, rather than using all of its energy to produce flowers. For intermedias, expect one bloom yearly. Our experience with English lavender however is very different. One variety we grow at the farm, Big Time Blue, blooms multiple times throughout the summer and fall, so really it depends on the type and sometimes the age of your lavender. (things are more predicatable as plants become more established.)
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